Birgitta Helmersson Zero Waste Cropped Shirt
Inspired by Yayoi Kusama
Pattern: ZW Cropped Shirt by Birgitta Helmersson
Fabric: Black & white polka dot linen from Joann’s
This is my personal rebellion against fast-fashion. By now, lots of people know that fast-fashion manufacturing takes a huge toll on the health of factory sewists, oftentimes paying them poverty wages and subjecting them to dangerous workplaces. Factories send streams of toxic chemicals into the forests and rivers of our most precious natural places on Earth. That’s why I was so excited to learn about the zero waste cropped shirt.
There’s no pattern pieces to print, assemble & trace. You’re given a zero waste layout suggestion, which leaves lots of room for personal experimentation. You’re free to use your entire cut of fabric! I suggest taking lots of notes and approaching this project with a clear head if you’re not naturally mathematically oriented.
Due to my measurements and preferred ease, I did create a small amount of waste. It helps that the leftover pieces are simple rectangles that will easily used in the future, as you fellow sewists know most scraps are pretty useless. For the black & white polka dot top, I used Birgitta’s very gathered sleeve hack tutorial to add those gorgeous statement sleeves. I lengthened the top a few inches - make sure to lengthen the button band as well if you do this. I forgot and had to piece together the button band, which is luckily not very noticeable. Oh and I must mention, after taking these photos I unpicked an inch or so of the button band to make the neck opening a little lower.
My biggest secret? I didn’t bother sewing the buttons and buttonholes like I normally would on a true button-up shirt! This linen is tissue thin and I was positive my buttonholer would shred the fabric to bits. I simply sewed the button band shut starting from the bottom of the neck to the hem. Then I sewed the buttons on top, effectively making the top a popover.
Cute candy colored buttons!
I enjoy making more involved tops, but it was so refreshing to be able to plan, cut, and sew a top within a weekend without having to concentrate too much. As an intermediate sewist I found that the instructions didn’t always create a polished look, so I tweaked some steps. That said, even if you follow the instructions to a T, you’ll produce a gorgeous garment worthy of wearing and passing down generations.
Green and white crisp cotton gingham from Fabric.com. Hello Bean!
Different fabrics will give different aesthetics to the pattern. The crisp cotton gingham gives a camp shirt vibe! This time I didn’t sew the button band closed from the bottom of the V to the hem. Instead, I sewed the buttons on through both bands, making this top a popover as well. I used little wooden buttons to complete the ~vibe~. It’s currently my Favorite Shirt.
These two tops are so effortlessly cool aesthetically and temperature-ally. I’m excited to make another one soon when I need a break from more challenging projects. I highly suggest this pattern! Happy sewing.
Photos taken by me